FaCshion

The most fantastic fashion event of the year will be taking place next month and Lady Waisted will be there!

We will be showcasing most of our current range or corsets, as well as offering visitors the chance to see our new range of wedding dresses, prom dresses and brand new corset designs.

The FaCshion trade show will be held at the Old Truman Brewery on the 13th and 14th of September. For more information check out their web-site www.facshion.co.uk.

“FaCshion is the very first two-day exhibition that targets both trade buyer and fashionista in London. Held on Saturday 13 September (13:30 – 18:00) and Sunday 14 September 2008 (12:00 – 18:00) at the Old Truman Brewery, this is a key fashion calendar event, hosting four catwalk shows, a champagne brunch for press and buyers, as well as 50 specially selected exhibitors.”

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We can’t wait for the show, and hope to see you there!

Pride and Prejudice

I am a big fan of period dramas, my favourite is the 1995 BBC production of Pride and Prejudice.

Dinah Collin was the costume designer on this lavish production, I love how well the clothes help to reflect social standing and personality.

The fashionable empire silhouette is seen on all the women in the programme but the small differences in fabric and colour are what define the character.

The Bennet sisters

The Bennet sisters were of quite modest means they were known as landed gentry, with enough money to live well on but not extravagantly. They wore cotton and muslin dresses printed with small delicate prints. Dinah Collin designed these fabrics from scratch after extensive research into the period. Keeping warm was not an easy task in such flimsy clothing so shawls, capes, and overcoats such as the Spencer ( a tailless riding coat named after Lord Spencer) were very popular. The small topaz necklaces worn by Elizabeth and Jane Bennet are exact replicas of gifts Charles Austen gave to his sisters Jane and Cassandra.

Miss Bingley and Mrs Hurst belong to a different class to the Bennets, they belong to the aristocracy. They are snobbish and think very highly of themselves. Their need to show the distinction between themselves and those beneath them is reflected in their clothing. The fabrics used for their dresses are obviously more expensive, they also use brighter colours, and more decoration though still in keeping with the simpler shape of the Regency period. They wore turbans which were inspired by Chinese designs, ostrich feathers were also popular.

Miss Bingley and Mrs Hurst

Men of the period all had a very similar dress code, they wore trousers, riding boots, fitted tail coat jackets and white linen shirts. The distinction in class could be seen in the cut of the clothing and the price of the fabric.

Below Elizabeth Bennet wears the popular Spencer jacket.

Mr Darcey and Elizabeth Bennet

This production is just as popular now as when it was first filmed. I believe this is because it is such a faithful reproduction of Jane Austen’s classic novel (unlike the awful 2005 film starring Kiera Knightly!!) I love the attention to detail throughout the programme.

Men’s 18th century fashion’s

The mid 18th century was an incredibly extravagant period in history, the French were the leaders of all things fashionable at this time. Men’s and women’s fashions were ornate and overly decorated.

Men’s coats were often made of beautiful silk brocades, rows of decorative buttons were added to the pockets, cuffs and knee breeches. The large cuffs were turned back almost to the elbow and often embroidered. Knee breeches were made of the same fabric as the coat. Stockings were made of cream silk, cotton or wool, the black leather shoes had a squared toe, large tongue and metal buckles. By the middle of the century men were beginning to wear their hair in curls that they tied at the back of their neck. Lace handkerchiefs, snuff-boxes and decorated gloves finished off the outfit of a fashionable gentleman.

18th century man's suit

Later in the century men’s fashions became more practical. The coat became tighter fitting, the waistcoat became short and the large cuffs disappeared. The bright colours, beautiful embroidery, lace and decorative buttons still remained and important part of rococo fashions.

18th century man's suit

A group of men took these fashions to extremes, they were called ‘macaronis’. They wore wigs piled high on their heads and powdered them white using flour. Powdered hair lasted until 1795 when Mr Pitt imposed a tax on it, he hoped to raise money from this move, instead everybody stopped wearing it.

Heavy make-up was worn, the skin was whitened and rouge was used on the lips and cheeks. Black beauty patches were popular, these were cut into various shapes. Washing was considered unhealthy so all of the make-up and patches worn helped to cover up dirt, spots and small pox scars. Not surprisingly perfume was very popular!

Below is a great cartoon showing macaronis at their most flamboyant, in contrast to the more conservative man on the right.

macaronis

As with many things, the French revolution dramatically changed how a fashionable man dressed and the fabulous Rococo age came to an end.

Henry VIII court fashions

Henry VIII came to the throne in 1509 aged 17 years old, he was tall, athletic and handsome. He inherited the throne on the death of his father Henry VII, whom he was nothing like. Henry VII liked to live simply and was careful with money. Henry VIII on the other hand was extravagant.

Henry VIII

Fashions during Henry’s reign were magnificent, with huge padded shoulders and square necklines. Slashing was very popular, the puffed shoulders, the doublet and even the shoes were all slashed to show bright contrasting fabric underneath. Henry brought back sumptuary laws that were first introduced in the 1300’s, these laws were there to stop the lower classes dressing above their station. Tudor sumptuary laws were called Statues of Apparel, they included things such as only Tudor royalty could wear clothes trimmed with ermine.

Underwear shaped both men and women’s fashions. Men wore codpieces, padded shoulders and a corset or girdle, the cod piece went out of fashion in the reign of Elizabeth I. Women’s underwear included a farthingale, in Henry’s reign this was bell shaped, a boned bodice, and many petticoats. All of these garments together created the fashionable silhouette.

Jewellery was very popular and as well as the clothes showed the contrast between the upper and lower classes. Pearls were worn by many in both Henry and Elizabeth’s court. Necklaces, bracelets, rings, pendants, earings and broaches were all worn and added to the extravagance of the time.

Henry’s courtiers were brilliantly dressed non more so then Henry himself, his clothes were made with the most expensive fabrics in colours such as purple, gold and silver. He also loved to wear as many rings as he could fit on his fingers. Henry was a striking figure and was everything a Tudor man should be.

For me the fashions of Henry’s reign are some of the most beautiful in history and represent the opulence of his court perfectly.

Jane Seymour

Super Hero Costumes

I never realised how many super heroes wore some form of corset.

I have been looking at the pictures for an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum, New York. The exhibition looks at costumes from our well known comic book hero’s and villains. It also shows interpretations from the cat walk, including designs from Thierry Mugler, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.

The exhibition looks fantastic, you can see more pictures at www.metmuseum.org but here are a few of my favourite corset inspired outfits.

Thierry Mugler Biker corset Thierry Mugler Haute Couture

Alexander McQueen design